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Heater Channel Replacement Article

by dragenwagen

copyright 2002

Page 9

*Disclaimer* This really isn't a how to. This is merely a collection of my thoughts and pictures. If you decide to undertake replacing the heater channels in your Beetle, then it is up to you to decide if you are capable of this task. You accept all risks involved in this endeavor. I am in no way responsible for your actions or your results. I am not responsible if you get killed, hurt, injured, squashed, burned, maimed, disfigured, burn your house down, accidental amputation of body parts, snoring, bed wetting, nightmares, drunk and disorderly conduct, profuse swearing or any other unforeseen natural or unnatural act for which I have no control over. Basically you take what I say or any of my pictures as merely reference material or entertainment material. Please do not use my pictures or my articles as I have written this and I am the owner of this article and all that which is contained in it. All pictures are mine. If you would like to link to them or use them in any way please email me and ask first.

bug bullet Welding on the bottom plate



bug bullet Now that the inside is painted, hopefully it wont rust from the inside out. I went ahead jacked the pan back up to the body and put in all the bolts from underneath with the curved washer looking things and the bottom plate it bolted tight to the pan. This is important, because it lines up all the holes in the pan to the heater channel. Then I put every clamp and vise grip I had to hold the bottom tight. Then, I took my wire wheel and took all the primer off the seam between the heater channel and the bottom plate. Everything should be lined up and you can tack weld the two pieces together on the lip. You can also drill some small holes in the top part of the heater channel and do a plug weld. After its all welded I dropped the pan back down to finish the back side of the heater channel. You will also have to weld in a small piece of metal in the rear to close up the heater channel and any rust repairs in the rear wheel well at this time. Once it is all welded up you will want to grind the welds down a little and put some seam sealer to keep water out of the heater channel. I have more work to do on the front bulkhead where it was rusted out so I left the pan and body separated for now.

Here is the back side of the heater channel with a patch in place and a small patch welded in to cover a small rust hole. This area was cut out and I used more of the fender for donor metal. The welds will need to be dressed. Then I applied some primer and painted it with some gray enamel paint I had. I am planning to paint the car with enamel so there should not be incompatibility problems. After the paint dried I applied a good application of the seam sealer then I covered it with some more of the gray enamel to seal in the joints where the patches are. I am not concerned with the looks all that much because this area will get undercoated and you'll never really see the repair, unless you look for it.

Seam sealer is applied to the lower quarter panel seam. Note that I still place a piece of 4x4 post in where ever I am working. This will reduce the pinch points and serve as a back up support when the body is on the saw horses.

 This shot is the welds all dressed and painted, sealed and repainted. I haven't put any undercoat on as that will happen after I get the car painted.

 My small jack and big sander I call death with a hand grip. That thing is a monster and it loves to chew up metal with lots of sparks. Its heavy and has a lot of torque.

The heater channel bottom all welded and sealed and painted. I will sand the sill down a little and it will be painted the same color as the car, but I wanted to make sure it was sealed real good. I don't want any water getting in there and rusting it out again anytime soon. 

 

Inside kick panel and A pillar. Notice how well everything is sealed and painted. I think that the A pillar repair turned out real nice! Carpet will cover the kick panel and the semi-noticeable fender well repair. The bulkhead will be the next section I work on and that is a another major surgery you wont want to miss!

Front fender well repair sealed and painted, although there is a small portion in the very front that needs finishing off. I will finish this when I do the bulkhead repair.

This is the rear part of the heater channel after the first couple coats of paint. I will apply seam sealer to the area then paint it again. 

This is the area after the seam sealer was applied and several more coats of gray paint was sprayed on. This will seal out the water and moisture from the welds and the seams. I missed a spot under the heater duct which I will have to fix. I didn't notice it before so I will have to go back and redo it.  

This is a shot of the front bottom plate and my re-engineering of the front bolts. Remember I said the nut plate was rusted away and the new channels didn't have a nut plate welded in place? Well this was my solution to the problem. I figured I would do it this way so all I would have to do it bust the nuts off if they get rusted on... like I going to take the body off when its done! You can also see that I haven't welded in the very front of the heater channel. I will cover this when I fix some rust in the front bulkhead. You also see my sloppiness with the seam sealer. A knife will take care of that. I will paint this area again and install the body to pan seal. The outside of the bottom plate will get some undercoat after the body is bolted back down. This will be to protect the paint on the bottom plate from rocks and road junk that gets kicked up from the tires.

       

bug bullet Page 10 - Front Bulkhead Repair

   

Home Heater channel page 1 Heater channel page 2
email me Heater channel page 3 Heater channel page 4
  Heater channel page 5 Heater channel page 6
  Heater channel page 7 Heater channel page 8
  Heater channel page 9  Heater channel page 10
  Heater channel page 11 Heater channel page 12 - Not done Yet